A Focus on the Chettinad Sarees of the Tamil Nadu

A Focus on the Chettinad Sarees of the Tamil Nadu
R.S. Balakumar
Associate Professor
Dept of Fashion Design & Arts
Hindustan University, Chennai, India
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com


CHETTINAD Sarees brings the trust worthy and sarees in multiple colour mixtures, designs and as well as the patterns. These designs denote custom and femininity. These sarees are to be worn on any special occasion and as their festival collections. All these sarees bear the hallmark that promises 100% quality to their product like, cotton (handloom and power loom woven- sarees, -cotton mixed with silk saree and also the pure silk saree.

Today's chettinad saree merchants have set up their goal to provide best quality goods at best possible prices for their Customers and Service to their valued Customers comes 5.50 Meter Saree from the price range starts from rs.650/-to 12,000/-Even now the traditional old aged women and grahmin women likely to wear the nine yards saree used to wear as their ethnic wear call it as Madisar Saree. Pure silk sarees price range starting from 3000/-to 60,000/-Even specialized designer wear collection of pure silk sarrees priced up to 1.5 lakhs with using of the pure gold zari borders are used depends on their customers expectations.
Beautiful chettinad saree
Fig: Beautiful chettinad sarees (Image courtesy-snapdeal.com)
Chettinad Sarees to give the good quality and exclusive designed cotton woven and as well as the silk sarees, South Indian Sarees, Traditional wear for the new generation and traditional women's expectations. Length: 6 .20 Meter Saree include Unstitched Blouse material. Even now the Blouse piece is attached with this sari and comes 7.00 meter.: Thse Sarees will always to given for the good quality and exclusive designed silk sarees, South Indian Sarees, Traditional wear for the new generation and traditional women's expectation. Chettinadu Cotton Sarees to satisfy their regular and new customers.

Chettinad or Chettinadu in Tamil Nadu, India has contributed to thevIndian cultural scene through its famed Chettinad style of cooking and the unique Chettinad sarees.

Traditionally Chettinad saree are woven in Karaikudi and Chettinadu areas which is positioned at 57 Kms away from Sivagangai District Headquarters. The distinguishing features of the Chettinad sarees are its seemingly heavy look and the striking colours that are achieved through a deft combination of stripes, checks and colour contrasts.

Chettinad Cotton sarees are normally woven with 60s Cotton warp and 60s Cotton weft.

The extra warp designs are woven with the use of Dobby. The colours of the Chettinad Sarees are of the traditional colours like yellow, green, red & its derivatives blue, maroon were used along with white and black to give richness to the sarees.

Chettinad sarees are woven with Pit looms / Raised pit looms with fly shuttle weaving technique. The traditional type of spreading the warp behind the loom i.e. ball warp, are engaged. By employing small stripes in different colour at the joining of the borders on both sides in warp way adds beauty of the sarees.

The size of the borders is comparatively broader than the ordinary sarees. The pallu of the sarees were woven with weft stripe. The major groups involved inweaving Chettinad Cotton Sarees are Devanga Chettiyars who are the skilled weavers from olden days. Originally 3 shuttles were used to obtain contrast solid coloured borders in both sides of the saree.Presently, the same is occasionally used.

How to differentiate the honest Chettinad Cotton Sarees as given under: -
  1. Small stripes in different colour at the joining of the borders in warp way on both sides.
  2. Simple Extra warp designs are employed.
  3. Only simple patterns are used in pallu,(borders of the saree two sides)mostly in stripes.
  4. The texture of the saree is fairly thicker.
  5. The sarees are having broad stripe or check patterns.
  6. Chettinad sarees do not have extra the Kandaangi saree or the Chettinad saree is renowned for its extensive use of colours, contrasting tints, stripes and bold check patterns.
  7. These sarees have long proved to be a prized possession of every south Indian woman.
  8. The charm of the Kandaangi saree is its ethnic look and versatility, making it a favourite for any occasion.
  9. The saree’s design has evolved over the years, just like how the routine developed over time, here in south India.
The most unique structures of the saree are its prominent colours which are brought out by the combination of stripes, colour contrasts and checks. Back in the day, the saree was used as a drape to cover the whole body without having to wear any other garments.
Chettinad sarees making by handloom
Fig: Chettinad sarees making by handloom
Also, the saree was worn in a way different manner and thus the Kandaangi specially used by the traditional Nagarathar and chettiar community based old –aged women and these sarees tend to be thicker and more durable and having longer life. Using and maintaining is also very simple.

Customarily, the Kandaangi sarees were all brick-red, black and mustard in colour, a mixture that compliments any type of appearance. Also, initially the width of the saree was 91 cm – much shorter than the current width of 120 cm. It was purposely so, with the intention of exposing the wearer’s anklet!

The modern description still continues a lot of individualities of the former but has been suitably improved to meet the needs of the present day women- wearers. Presently, both silk and cotton are used as base material and feature the elegant Kandaangi borders have amalgamated attractively with surface-embroidery designs and elegant colorful patterns.

The thread count has also increased to make the saree smoother and finer. The Kandaangi weavers now use synthetic fabrics and machines to be in synthetic, with the latest fashions and high demand.

Obviously, the Kandaangi saree is changing. It also makes quite an involvement, just watching how the sarees are spun in the traditional looms by the members of the weaving community.The Kandaangi saree is truly a Chettinad icon, replicating the splendid past and the tastes of the present day.

Presently, teens are also being wearing these chettinad sarees to show their appearance as traditional look. Even now chettinad sarees are having export marketing potential. Due to this condition foreign exchange value is also rapidly increased. In India many textile show rooms are having the separate section to show case exclusively the chettinad sarees of cotton and silk sarees.

References:
  1. INDIAN SARIS: Traditions,Perspectives,Designs.
  2. The sari-Linda Lynton.
  3. The Saris-Mulika Banerjee.
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Mazharul Islam Kiron is a textile consultant and researcher on online business promotion. He is working with one European textile machinery company as a country agent. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.


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